This DIY bed platform features a large, space saving storage drawer underneath. Master DIYer Frank Kecseti of Glued-n-Screwed designed the bed platform to be be extra sturdy. He made it look good, too, with a beadboard facing that gives it an appealing coastal chic look.
Follow along with Frank’s tutorial to build your own DIY bed platform.
DIY Bed Platform
After receiving our new boxspring-less mattress, we knew it was time to build a functional, yet aesthetically pleasing bed platform with storage. After much deliberation, my fiancée and I opted for a simple frame, trimmed in beadboard and utilizing corner and screen moulding to dress it up. The most predominant feature of the DIY bed platform is the 5-foot wide, 2-foot deep drawer at the foot of it, with more than 14,000 cubic inches of storage space.
- (1) Full sheet of sanded plywood (roughly ½ in. thick)
- (2) Full sheets of ⅛ in. Tempered Hardboard
- (6) 2 x 6 x 14 Pieces of pine lumber
- (3) Packs of 8 ft. beadboard strips
- (4) Square bun feet
- (4) Flat top post caps
- (1) Twin pack of 24 in. drawer slides
- (16) 2 x 6 Joist hangers
- Corner moulding
- Screen moulding
- Construction adhedsive
- Nails and screws
- Framing nailer
- Pneumatic stapler
- Particulate Respirator (aka a dust mask)
- Miter saw
Cutting the Lumber and Nailing the Frame Together
As our bed is king-sized, our ending measurements had to be 76 in. wide by 80 in. long. Since this frame will be made up of two rectangular frames with “joists” 16 inches on center, I cut 12 joist pieces; eight for the center and four for the two ends of each half.
After cutting all the lumber, I used a framing nailer to fasten the pieces together — this is easier, but can also be done by hand. (You can rent a framing nailer from The Home Depot, too.)
The top is made from ⅛ in. tempered hardboard.
Tempered hardboard is commonly found on the backs of some furniture and entertainment centers and, for our purposes, was the perfect product due to is smoothness and workability. It was important for us to have a smooth surface as to not tear the underside of the mattress. (Wear a dusk mask with this material as it tends to stir up a lot of fine particulate into the air.)
For added support and rigidity, I used joist hangers for the interior joists of the bed frame. These hangers are inexpensive and will help support the weight of my fiancée and me when we’re in the bed. At 86 cents each, they’re cheap insurance against future problems or being rudely awakened in the middle of the night with a collapsed bed.
Utilizing an inverted post cap and square bun foot, our beds feet were born.
The post cap has a smooth, flat top on it and once the square bun foot was glued and screwed on, it looked as though it was made together. By using these two pieces in conjunction with one another, we were able to achieve a unique look for less cost.
To get the legs of the platform to be flush with the outside of the frame I cut them to length. Since they were to be inset into the frame, they’re 20 in. overall (5½ in. inset into the frame and 14½ in. below the frame). Most importantly, each leg was notched out 1½ in. (the width of a 2 x 6) on two sides and down 5½ in. (depth of a 2 x 6).
By doing this step, the legs and frame become one and better distribute the weight and do not force the nails/screws to bear all the downward pressure.
After notching, the legs were attached with deck screws and the feet then attached to the legs.
Above you can see both sides of the bed main frame complete and standing. Along the center line of the bed we attached “dummy feet”, which are 2 x 4’s cut to length. They will not be seen once the bed is in place and things placed underneath it. They’re a simple way to add support and keep the center from sagging.
The Drawer Sliders
The drawer sliders presented their own creative challenge.
Since the drawer will not be enclosed in a cabinet or box, we had to semi-invert the hardware — mounting it on the top of the drawer versus the bottom of the side, like on most drawers. For this, I built a stacked 2 x 4 block to allow me to hang the hardware and secure the braces within the frame itself.
The “mega” drawer is 5 ft. wide, 2 ft. long, and 10 in. deep. It’s quite a large drawer. For my fiancée and me, this was the crown jewel of the bed and made the most sense for our storage needs.
This basic box construction can also be used for side-facing drawers. As you can see from the picture above, the face of the drawer extends out from the side as to fill the front face of the bed.
Finally, it was time for trim.
The beadboard was cut 5½ inches so as to hide the entire side of the 2 x 6.
Remember to make sure to match, mark, and check your drawer pieces to be sure they align with the frame beadboard. The last thing you want is jagged vertical detailing.
To finish off the top edge and prevent accidental tears or scuffs, we used ¾ in. corner moulding and for everything else we used screen moulding. The 7¼ in. miter saw worked perfectly for this.
To finish off the top, prior to painting, the tempered hardboard was glued down (with construction adhesive) and then stapled using 18-gauge narrow crown staples. Staples hold better and prevent blow-out more so than nails or screws on thinner materials.
After a quick few coats of paint, we installed some beautiful copper hardware we found at a local eclectic store. We loved the hardware so much that we created faux double drawer pulls. By placing two separate drawer pulls close together (about 3 inches), we made them appear as one, which gave the appearance of larger pulls on such a larger drawer.
Now, with it all done, it’s time for a nap!
Frank Kecseti is a graphic designer and avid DIYer. He shares DIY project tutorials, product reviews, and practical advice home improvement and auto maintenance on his blog Glued-n-Screwed.
Visit The Home Depot’s Moulding and Millwork Department for beadboard paneling and moulding. Our Lumber and Composites Department has the wood you need for any DIY or home improvement project you’re working on.
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